ABOUT THE course
This is a recreational multi pitch lead climbing course, designed as an advanced lead climbing course for recreational single pitch lead climbers and single pitch guides looking to take the next step in developing their skills to a multi pitch climbing environment.
The students will be presented with tools and techniques to confidently and safely climb on multi pitch routes.
Involving a mix of complex approaches and descents on both sport protected routes and traditionally protected routes.
Self Study – Pre Course Requirements
All Trainees will be required to Download and Complete the required documents for your course.
All of our courses have a set of Study and Exam Materials that are required to be completed Prior to the Practical training phase. www.paci.com.au/guides.php
This 4 day lead climbing course will give climbers the knowledge and skills required to confidently transition from single pitch lead climbing to multi pitch lead climbing in a natural cliff environment.
Day 1 – Sport Multi Pitch Lead Climbing Skills – Bolted Routes
Day 2 – Trad Multi Pitch Lead Climbing Skills – Trad Routes
Day 3 – Multi Pitch Rescue Skills
Day 4 – Traditional Lead Climbing Skills – Trad Routes Assessment
Prepare for the climb.
Select clothing, footwear and personal protective equipment suitable for the climb and conditions.
Interpret route description; identify position of natural features, the climb route and contingencies.
Determine need for artificial protection during ascent; select and rack for accessibility during climb.
Attach and adjust belay equipment to self and tie knots suitable for the required belay system.
Confirm protocols for communications between climber and belayer.
Complete equipment safety checks prior to climbing or belaying.
Climb multi pitch routes.
Use safety procedures at bottom, top of and throughout pitches to minimise risk to self and others present.
Use appropriate posture and climbing techniques suitable to natural features.
Locate and utilise rest positions to reduce fatigue.
Safely approach, avoid or negotiate hazards to ascend in a controlled manner.
Maintain effective communication with belayer throughout climb.
Use techniques that minimise damage to equipment and the surface during climb.
Ascend multi pitch routes as a lead climber. set up belay stations and belay the seconding climber
Evaluate potential direction of falls, magnitude of force and second climber’s ability.
Select suitable type, and set anchors and belay system safely and efficiently throughout climb.
Place protection to reduce the Zipper Effect of protection in the event of a fall
Place solid and reliable protection periodically during climb to reduce fall distance.
Use techniques to minimise rope drag, displacement of artificial protection and injury in the event of a fall.
Monitor and maintain the safeguard system continuously.
Retreat from pitches when climber safety is compromised.
Select solid and secure anchors in between pitches and at top of pitch, or place artificial protection.
Establish belay system at top of pitch to maximise climber and belayer safety.
Utilise belaying system to maximise climber safety.
Remove artificial protection with and without a nut tool and minimise damage to equipment and natural surface.
Avoid or negotiate hazards and use safety procedures to minimise risk to self and others present.
Establish belaying position and attach self to anchor, as required, to allow effective and safe use of belay system.
Maintain rope tension to minimise fall distance and ensure climber movement is not unduly restricted.
Monitor climber progress constantly, and maintain clear communication with climber.
Arrest falls promptly using technique suitable to belaying device and situation.
Safely and efficiently secure climber using tie off techniques; release tie off and allow climber to continue.
Lead belaying – Single and Double Ropes – Using a range of devices
How to clip quickdraws and safely position your rope whilst climbing
How to clean the anchors on a sport route
How to fall on a lead route
Using traditional protection I.e. cams, wires and hexes
How to build anchors for traditional climbing
Abseiling skills – Bail Out Skills – Retrievable Abseil Systems – Multi Pitch Descents
Rescue skills – Assisting your seconding climber past a crux Mechanical Advantage – Hauling Systems – Rescue a lead climber in a Multi Pitch Environment. Descend with an unconscious casualty in a Multi Pitch Descent.
Respond to an emergency situation in a multi pitch context
Document incident and faulty equipment reporting.
Trainees to perform skills alone and unaided
When competency has been achieved trainees will finalise assessment verification documents and learner questionnaires.
Successful trainees will receive a Nationally Recognised Statement of Attainment.
SKILLS LEARNED
- Managing risk in a multi pitch environment
- Environmental ethics
- Belaying techniques to prevent a factor 2 fall at a belay station
- Technical gear placement and anchor building
- Removal of stuck equipment with the use of a nut tool
- Belaying and rope management techniques with double ropes
- Change over or swinging leads
- Traversing pitches (how to prevent a pendulum fall)
- Lowering techniques (Knot bypass whilst lowering an injured climber)
- Bailout techniques retrievable and fixed joined rope descents (Knot Bypass)
- Rescue techniques in a multi pitch environment
